Heater - Jeep 2002 Liberty Limited Edition question. Heat recently started blowing lukewarm air. Coolant level fine, oil fine. Heater core checked and working properly. If there is no heat and air is blowing out check your radiator level. If the engine coolant is too low water will not get to your heater...I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited, it has 213,000+ miles on it. My heat has not been working for awhile now. Anyway I finally took it in to be looked at, it's too cold and I can't take another winter with no heat in my car.Hi,im looking for some help here...i have a jeep liberty kj 2002 that blow some warm air...not hot...the thermostat is ok,the heater core is unclog,i drill...My jeep libertys fan is not blowing at all on any setting for the heat or ac. That happened to our fan too. Just go to the shop, it cost us about $150 to get it fixed, not too bad. We have a 2002 liberty limited.19.03.2016 · No Heat 2002 Jeep Liberty. I need some advice. I had this problem and the only way I was able to get it out was by running it at operating temp and opening up the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator slightly and let it drain until hot coolant started coming out the drain and the lower hose...
No Heat 2002 Jeep Liberty - JeepForum.com
2003 Jeep Liberty heating problem Подробнее. jeep liberty 2002 heat problem/hvac box issue Подробнее. How To Replace Thermostat Housing 02-13 Jeep Liberty Подробнее.Learn more about the 2002 Jeep Liberty. 2002 Jeep Liberty Expert Review. We're sorry, our experts haven't reviewed this car yet. She has no rust on her at all and is great in the snow. 0.110,000 MILES. 2002 Jeep liberty poor heat. Replaced the Thermostat, radiator due to leaking, and bad clamp on the coolant reservoir, cap and flushed hater core still poor heat and answers will help tremendously.Find 2002 Jeep Liberty recalls information, reported by the NHTSA, and we will help you find a nearby service center where you can get your car fixed. These headlamps fail to conform to the requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard no. 108, "lamps...
jeep liberty 2002 heat problem/hvac box issue - YouTube
Смотрите также видео: Jeep liberty heater not blowing very hot, jeep liberty 2002 heat problem/hvac box issue, Jeep No heat or NO AC on Jeep. hi,im looking for some help here...i have a jeep liberty kj 2002 that blow some warm air...not hot...the thermostat is ok,the heater core is unclog...jeep liberty 2002 heat problem/hvac box issue mp3 Duration 3:12 Size 7.32 MB / Joffre richer-desroches 14. Music Jeep Liberty No Heat 100% FREE! ★ MyFreeMp3 helps download your favourite mp3 songs download fast, and easy.Read the First Test: 2002 Jeep Liberty road test. Review Jeep Liberty engine performance, suspension and pricing. First Test 2002 Jeep Liberty. This new midsize sport/utility has definitely got game.2002 Jeep Liberty. Type and Description. Power rack and pinion. Although New-Cars.com checks with auto manufacturers and their representatives to confirm the accuracy of the data, it makes no guarantee or warranty, either expressed or implied with respect to the data presented here.Description: Used 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport with AWD/4WD, Rear Bench Seats, Fold Flat Rear Seats. Engine: 4-cylinders Transmission: Manual Drive Wheel Configuration: four wheel drive. Listing Information: VIN: 1J4GL48K62W191419 Certified Pre-Owned: No. Price Drop.
I had this factor not too long ago in an '02 and suppose I just fastened it. It had sat for 2 years, the water pump was once leaking and replaced, so I flushed it last Summer. I began getting it back at the street again and coffee heat was observed as ya'll are seeing. Low blower velocity it's going to be heat however flip it up and it goes again to chill. I pulled the two hoses that feed the heater core and one was dry (the left one) whilst the other used to be wet. I ran a commonplace garden hose through it and dust came out but cleared up temporarily. I do not believe that used to be the problem but it without a doubt wasn't helping the matters. Here I merely assume it had low float to and from it already and mud simply accumulated.
Staring at the steel tube arrangement that feeds it, I in reality don't see the core being definitely pressure fed if ANY air is in the core or the lines. Knowing that the core is pretty full after the lawn hose flush, I hooked it all again up, topped off the tank (over filled in truth) with RO water, and brought it up to temp. When the temp gauge used to be directly up and down and keeping, turned at the heat...significantly better however now not sizzling. There needs to be air in there still. The right heater provide was once sizzling and outlet at the left used to be still simply heat. Top and bottom rad hoses had been sizzling, so I decided to massage the higher hose (simply squeezing and letting go). I felt and heard air so I saved massaging it until no more air. At that time I needed to grasp some welding gloves and really giving it a hard squeeze for roughly Five mins repeating what I'd achieved earlier than. Using a laser temp meter I then saw the hoses have been the same temp in the end! Cranked up the heat and prefer magic it was once blazing hot just find it irresistible was once back in 2002! I ran it for some time longer simply to make sure, became it off, did it once more...were given heat once more. So I think it is fastened. I should also notice that a couple of quart of water from the over-filled tank was once used appearing that it changed some air pocket, assuming within the higher rad hose and the remainder of what was once within the core.
What I think is going on right here is if the tank ever is going empty you run the chance of air-binding the heater core. The backside of the tank appears to be about an inch lower than the top of the heater core. The water pump will feed the engine block just wonderful and all turns out standard in keeping with the gauge but the two lines that feed the core from the decrease passenger facet of the engine meeting won't have any motivation to be fed with heated water. I just don't see it being positively fed always and scenarios as the pump is not certain displacement...it feeds and circulates what phase is primed with water while the air sure part would possibly simply trickle.
Some notes here just for the curious which might be still Googling and finding this thread:
1) I've by no means been able to get that allen head set screw out of the upper rad hose neck. It's stuck and no impact is getting it off this 14 Jeep. Looking at the meeting to interchange that complete phase stops me wanting stripping out the threads. Water was there and massaging the hose motivated it up and into the higher radiator.
2) The maximum simple thing to do in a low heat situation is to pull the tank (two 10mm nuts and a few spring clips), Remove the two hoses that move into the firewall (two extra spring clips), and run water via it. If water flows, its now not clogged. If it's dirty then clears up, it had low flow however still turns out good to me. Basically, it is a easy check and no need to exchange the heater core if it flows in point of fact well...that's not the problem.
3) Heater core substitute prices are moderately prime and 1,2 hundred does sound correct. It's an inexpensive part however all of the money spent is in exertions as it usually is when a shop is doing it. It's a PAIN to interchange and if 2) is ok, why waste the money? Hate to say it, but our Kelly blue e book values are pretty low and can color tree our approach round this dear (or an overly time eating) alternative activity. Just spent 1,two hundred on a transmission on a
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,500 '95 miata so it comes all the way down to how a lot you price those getting older friends of ours.4) Keep coolant in the tank! When it goes low, dangerous issues appear to begin taking place and we get thus far. I've discovered no less than 10 different forums asking this several times in every in this short technology of Jeep KJ's. I had a 15yo finding out to power, by no means mentioned it had no heat but made certain it had oil and tires have been up to force...so that's excellent. The tank got low in my case and think that's where it all started. As said, the tank will get stained and the "full" stage is at the seam of the tank. Pulse the higher rad hose to peer the level exchange. Just looking on the tank can go away you simply taking a look at a stain when it is dry. See 6)
5) That lower hose with a spring inside is very common, even back in '60s type automobiles. That's the suction facet of the pump and it may cave in without it. If you don't really feel one, the hose has been replaced and the "mechanic" did not put the spring back in. Get a spring in there! The top doesn't want it because it is beneath drive, no longer suction.
6) Parts are not being made for this anymore and it is a search to search out substitute portions just like the reservoir tank. I've tried to wash it with no luck and it's a heck of a seek to search out one to switch it. That airhose from the filter box to the inlet resonator? Mine cracked in '07. Nope, cannot get a alternative...in the end got in poor health of monthly duct tape fixes and purchased an AEM consumption kit. Not to be cool or be expecting 800HP positive factors, however I had too as a result of I will't to find that phase that helps to keep filth out of my engine. Point being, it was once available in '07 and we need to keep on best of this stuff. If you can discover a new tank now, I'd do so sooner than we suck them up and we're off to ebay knockoff items.
7) Hope this TL/DR put up is helping. This is the most efficient thread I've discovered and figured since we're nonetheless looking for this problem I'd pour it out right here and attempt to upload to it with my thoughts.
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